Spindrift, The Build - Part 3
4 to 7 April - Full fillets and taping inside seams
With the tack welds in place, all stitches were removed and full fillets of the seams can now commence. since the plans recommended to put the fiberglass tape 
on while the fillets were wet. I did that. I worked on the aft section first, before the nesting bulkhead. The next day I did the same with the front half and the day after that, i did the inside of the bow after the front bulkhead. The red wall paper applicator Rolly recommended was a great radiusing tool The excess epoxy was used to coat some parts of the boat. As I did the back half first, it was a little sloppier than the front half. I know it’s going to be a bitch cleaning it up later. The space after the forward bulkhead was a little small to fit the wall paper applicator so I used a plastic spoon to apply the putty.
8 to 10 April - Side B, filling outside seams and radius chines
Since the boat was still pretty light, flipping it over was an effortless task, I could have done it by myself, but I solicited Betty’s help just in case. The boat is really solid now. After the flip, I trimmed off the excess plywood at the transom with a planer and a palm sander.
Next to do was filling in the outside seams and stitch holes 
with putty. since this would use very little putty and I wanted the chines to be solid, I used Pioneer non-sag epoxy. The smallest amount you can buy was actually more than enough to do the job. After letting the epoxy dry for a day. it was time to round over the chines with a sander. The epoxy cured very well, and it was rock hard. Sanding the stuff is harder than sanding laminating epoxy with micromix, 
but it was no more difficult than sanding solid wood. around a third of the way into the job, my palm sander seized up, it’s been making some strange noises the past few days and I guess it just died. So I had to do the rest of the sanding by hand with a sandpaper and a wooden block (Andrew’s recommendation) I can actually say I liked the experience, it was very therapeutic, I also think the job came out better without the power tool as I had better control.
11 to 13 April - Taping outside seams, scribing and cutting the keel
Next to do was to tape the outside seams with fiberglass tape. I decided to double up on the tape on the outside also as the locally available glass cloth is of 
a lighter weight that what is recommended by the designer.
I did the starboard side first, then the port, then the center line and aft. The task was fairly easy to do, around 30 minutes for each chine.
While I was doing this, Andrew was trying to figure out how to make the keel. I was also having a hell of a time figuring it out also, so I left it to the guy who has English as a native language. He eventually got it and started scribing. The wood we used for the keel came from a 1 1/4" x 6" plank, finished size was around 1" x 5" it was a little thicker that what was recommended but I think it would work out well. The keel stock was hard stuff, so Andrew decided to use a Jigsaw. Man-hour total to this point, around 83
Went to the beach over the holy week and didn’t get any work done on the boat for a couple of days. After around the second day I was actually missing the boat work. Andrew is saying I’m obsessed, what’s new? 
Hoping to be able to install the keel this week and do some minor clean up work before the "BIG CUT"
<== Not my boat, but this what the "BIG CUT" will be like 
Also got the sander going again, The dealer where I got it from replaced the carbon brushes and the bearings. cost to repair: P150. not bad.
